Pleats, Please!

Explore how Issey Miyake’s “PLEATS PLEASE” collection exudes both comfort and couture.  

by Rachel Yu

Carina McCallum - Taken at Castanet, a consignment store on Newbury St

When it comes to fashion, everyone has heard the saying “comfort over style” at least once. Admittedly, when seasons become too hot or too cold, I stop prioritizing stylish, expressive outfits. Instead, I consistently gravitate toward my go-to uniform: a white top with blue jeans.

Especially in the luxury fashion realm, comfort is almost never an option. From Schiaparelli’s extravagant, costume-like silhouettes to Thom Browne’s voluminous yet structured looks, creativity and lavishness ultimately outweigh comfort across most fashion houses.

Late Japanese designer Issey Miyake, however, exuded both elegance and functionality all through one simple pattern: pleats. Initially released in 1993, the “Pleats Please” collection was a result of Miyake’s experiments with different fabrics and textures. 

Each piece is designed with a specific “garment pleating” technique, which starts with a large piece of quality polyester fabric that is folded and woven into pleats, and later sealed in through heat. Using fabric over three-times the size of the final garment, the pleats stretch with movement, allowing wearers to move freely without restriction.

Now, “Pleats Please” serves as an emblem of heritage, practicality and versatility with Issey Miyake’s legacy embedded between every pleat. He sought to release a universal collection that expressed decades worth of craftsmanship, while simultaneously designing a light, staple product people could wear everyday.

“Pleats Please are clothes designed to suit the needs and style of every woman,” said Midori Kitamura, the late president of the Miyake Design Studio in Taschen’s Issey Miyake book.

With its breathable, stretchy design, these pleats have become a staple in maternitywear, according to Vogue. Many mothers, including Rihanna, have styled pleats during their pregnancies.

And these pleats don’t lie—they are permanent and wrinkle-proof. No matter how you fold or store them, these pleats will never lose their original shape.

Due to its lightweight material, the “Pleats Please” garments were trending this past summer, with many people styling pleated pants and tops on the breezier days.

Now, Issey Miyake has its first flagship store in New York City’s Nolita, specializing solely on the “PLEATS PLEASE” collection. From selling the iconic Groove pleated ombré dress to classic monthly-colored pants, this flagship offers all things pleated.

With their enduring quality, Miyake’s pleats are meant to last a lifetime, proving that fashion ultimately should be based on comfort and functionality.