The Not-So-Clean Menu

Exploring the costs of “clean” food chains

by Stella Coffaro

Photograph by Ben Farkas

It always starts the same way. Stressed and starving, you power-walk down Comm Ave, convinced that your Cava bowl will be a healthy, satiating meal. You tell yourself it’s clean, fresh, filling—a treat for your tastebuds and your wellbeing. 

That’s exactly what the health halo wants you to think. Popular food chains like Sweetgreen, Panera, Subway and Cava have mastered the art of sounding healthy, tossing around buzzwords like “fresh,” “organic,” and “whole foods” to make you feel better about your choice before the food even reaches your tongue. But underneath all of these terms, it’s often just branding dressed up as nutrition. 

Sweetgreen is the perfect example of the health halo in action. Sweetgreen salads and build-your-own bowls promise fresh, whole ingredients that are ethically sourced. In practice, while Sweetgreen is a much healthier alternative to other fast food chains like McDonald’s or Taco Bell, many of its bowls exceed 800-900 calories, feature low-nutritional toppings or dressings, and come in large portions. 

The catch? Consumers have to know which ingredients to choose to get the most nutritional value. And while the chain markets these meals as good for you, they also come with a steep price tag: $16 or more for a single bowl. For students and families on a budget, it’s difficult to justify this high expense. But as Sweetgreen CEO Johnathan Neman explains, people pay for the quality, labor and sourcing of their ingredients—the cost a reflection of Sweetgreen’s brand as a “healthier alternative” to other food chains. 

So, the health halo makes these meals feel more worth the cost. However, it also masks a larger reality: fresh food isn’t available for everyone. Quality groceries are becoming increasingly expensive and difficult for many Americans to access—especially with the loss of SNAP benefits for millions under the current Trump administration—leaving room for chains like Sweetgreen to profit from their illusion of fast and better-for-you meals. 

How can we deal with this dilemma? For on-campus students, they can take advantage of BU dining halls which collaborate with BU Sargent Choice Nutrition Center to create balanced, healthy meals. Grocery shoppers can also focus on ingredients and nutritional value rather than buzzwords like “organic” or “whole foods,” to plan quality, affordable meals. And don’t forget to support and/or use resources like the on-campus Food Pantry, which can help students dealing with food insecurity. 

At the end of the day, healthy food shouldn’t cost half of your paycheck. Recognizing the health halo of  “clean” food chains can help you make smarter, more affordable choices—ones good for your health and your wallet!