Don’t Be Fooled, Curated Vintage Is Not All That

As thrift culture and vintage stores merge, it’s becoming harder to tell whether you’re finding a true gem.

By Stephanie Ahn

Graphic by Zoe Lyko

For all the fashion girlies, “curated vintage” is a term that immediately conjures images of unique Y2K blouses, Coach bags, and cowboy boots that, fingers crossed, are The Frye Company. But in reality, curated vintage stores are far from that ideal picture. In fact, I’d go as far as to say they’re practically a scam.

The rise of thrifting has proved the old saying, “what’s old is new.” In response to fast fashion's popularity, there has been an emphasis on circular fashion. Due to increased environmental awareness and exposure to poor working conditions, people have turned to thrifting rather than mall brands.

Thrifting offers a unique thrill: you never know what you’ll find. Of course, the prices are unbeatable. But, there’s also the thrill of getting lucky and finding a special or different item that doesn’t look like it came from a specific brand. It’s almost comparable to gambling; you’re not sure if you’re gonna get something good, but the game is the fun part. 

“Vintage” has fallen under the umbrella term “thrifting” without a clear correlation. Yes, some clothes at the thrift may be older and considered vintage. But shopping at the thrift doesn't inherently mean finding vintage clothing and vice versa.

Customers need to know this difference so they can tell which stores are worth their money. Just because something is second-hand doesn’t mean it can be priced at a random number. Historically, thrifting has been an opportunity for those who can’t afford things brand-new to find clothing. Now, thrifting and vintage have become so intertwined that many can’t tell the difference. 

Haight-Ashbury, a San Francisco neighborhood known for its thrifting, hippie culture, and eclectic nature, had always been a staple for my Bay Area-born-and-raised self to go shopping. Imagine my surprise when I returned for the first time in a couple of years to find almost all the thrift shops rebranded as vintage stores, selling t-shirts for $50 with no tags. The clothes could very well be from Amazon for all I knew. And now, this curated vintage epidemic has reached Boston. 

But the point isn’t to name names or slam different stores. It’s to raise awareness of the blurred lines around this vague term.

So what actually constitutes thrifting? Well, there’s a bit of a spectrum when you get into the nitty-gritty details of the different stores. 

First, there are non-profit organizations that strictly take donations. Examples of these stores include Goodwill and Salvation Army. These places will likely have the lowest prices among all the second-hand stores. Some organizations that take donations are for-profit.

Next, you have buy-sell-trade stores where you can sell clothes on the spot and receive payment. Buy-sell stores like 2nd Street, Buffalo Exchange, and Crossroads Trading are common, especially in Boston. 

Finally, there are consignment stores that take your items and sell them on your behalf. However, you will receive your payment only after a sale, usually at a discounted price. Consignment stores tend to be more upscale and picky about what products they will take from you. Some of the popular ones in Boston are Covet and The Garment District. 

On the other hand, purely vintage stores won’t accept consignment or donations and often source stock from “hidden sources.” So no, vintage stores aren’t the same as the good ol’ thrift, and no matter how hard they try, they will never be.

Like, who even knows if that popped tag is designer or came straight off of Shein?