Exploring the Amish Capital of the World: Lancaster County, Pennsylvania

Your next niche bucket list destination awaits among one of America’s most fascinating and mysterious communities.

By Isabella Licwinko

Graphic by Arrow Kempthorn

Just two hours outside of metropolitan Philadelphia lies a place where horses and buggies replace cars and lush farmland rolls for miles and miles. Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, is home to the oldest and largest Amish settlement in the world, boasting approximately 45,000 residents who identify with the traditionalist Anabaptist faith. While the close-knit community may appear reclusive at first glance, their presence is felt all over Lancaster County, where visitors can experience elements of Amish culture throughout the year.

The Amish, members of the Old Order Amish, are a Christian subculture within the Anabaptist movement, a post-Reformation tradition that proclaims adult baptism, pacifism, and the avoidance of many modern conveniences such as cars, television, household appliances, and up-to-date clothing styles. Other Anabaptist sects include the Mennonites and the Brethren, whose communities have also found a home in Lancaster alongside the Amish, but vary in their views regarding technology, education, and engagement with the secular world.

Lancaster provides a side of America rarely portrayed in mainstream media. So, when my spring break from college began to reek of boredom just three days in, I decided to take a solo two-hour road trip out to the “Amish country” and escape the humdrum of my suburban hometown.

When road-tripping across the country, my first piece of advice is simple: avoid highways at all costs. There is nothing like driving America’s backroads with the windows down and breathing in the fresh air of rural plains. Even if taking backroads adds time to your trip, you never know what settlements or pit stops you might come across along the way. Lancaster County is rich with these little gems sprinkled across the breathtaking landscape.

For example, I counted more than a dozen vegetable stands and farms taking visitors as I drove through the picturesque towns of Morgantown and New Holland on my way there. Not only are these typically Amish or Mennonite sellers incredibly friendly and hospitable, but their produce is very high-quality and often more affordable than most supermarkets.

Finally, I approached the village of Intercourse—my destination of interest. Yes, the village’s name is real, and there are a few theories of where it comes from, but my personal favorite is that “intercourse” refers to social interaction and fellowship within a religious community. Still, the local community and visitors alike can’t help but share a laugh when approaching the welcome sign.

My first stop was Immergut Hand-Rolled Soft Pretzels, an Amish-run family business that sells soft pretzels, lemonade, and iced coffee. These pretzels alone are worth the journey. I’m not ashamed to say I have driven two hours to Intercourse just to have a taste of these delicious snacks. Clad in their prayer caps and plain dresses, the Amish women who run the store prepare the melt-in-your-mouth pretzels right before your eyes, skillfully twisting and dipping the dough before frying it in a boiling vat. My personal favorite is the cinnamon-sugar pretzel, which practically melts in your mouth upon first bite.

A bit dehydrated afterward, I stopped at the Corner Coffee Shop on Old Philadelphia Pike. Connected to a local furniture store, the café promotes a warm atmosphere and a menu of coffee, tea, and treats. I ordered a seasonal Golden Latté, infused with cinnamon and cardamom, which soothed my sore throat, and bought a locally made jarred iced tea. The Corner Coffee Shop can also serve as a great study space, so I took the time to catch up on some of my homework as well.

I then traveled across the road to Kitchen Kettle Village, a collection of over 40 unique shops, restaurants, and lodgings in the heart of Intercourse. It was practically impossible to choose where to start in this large shopping complex that is architecturally posed like a Dutch village. Many of these shops boast several Amish-made and locally-crafted goods, like The Olive Basin, where I picked up a holistic balm-like remedy for seasonal allergies. Village Quilts, on the other hand, called to me with its locally-crafted aprons among the plethora of American-made textiles they sell.

Lastly, a bit burned out from shopping, I sat with my thoughts in Dutchland Galleries, an art gallery specializing in “contemporary realism in the Brandywine School tradition.” The walls were lined with brilliant works of art created by regional and local artists, many capturing the beauty and simplicity of the Lancaster landscape. It was the perfect way to end the day as the golden sun slowly set outside of the windows of the gallery.

While Lancaster may be a slightly unexpected destination to add to your bucket list, I can assure you it is well worth your time—especially if you’re craving a peaceful escape from the bustling metropolitan cycle and a slice of traditional America.